Saturday, December 20

Hakkone
I took three baths in the last twenty-four hours. I'm all poka-poka, as the Japanese like to say. I guess that soaking in onsen, wearing Yukata and eating umeboshi (pickled plums) means I'm a Nihon-jin now. =D

Hakkone was lovely, especially the Rotenburo (outdoor bath) attached to the hotel. It was crystal clear and cold, which meant that late last night I could look up and finally SEE the stars and this morning also enjoyed an early, bright-blue, cloudless sky.

I was really a bit disappointed in the whole experience though. With my (US) family, I'm so used to trying to actually get out and do something outside the city. But aside from hanging out in the hotel yesterday evening and this morning, we didn't actually DO anything in Hakkone besides drive there and back. I don't even feel like I really got to see the place outside of the hotel.

As soon as we'd arrived and even before the huge (HUGE) traditional dinner was set out in our room (yay!) my host dad collapsed from sheer exhaustion, didn't eat a thing, and didn't budge till morning. We all pretty much ate in silence except for the sound of the TV. If there's one conviction Japan has definitely furthered in me, it's that I hate TV. Hate it. Worthless piece of noisemaking junk.

And I don't know WHAT to say about my host sister. I'd hoped this weekend would bring us closer somehow but it just... didn't. For all my trying, the conclusion is that she's simply *weird.* I'm sure you want to know more from that biased and shallow conclusion... but believe me, that's all there is to say and that's all I can say without feeling guilty. It's not the language barrier, it's not that she's shy... there is something very "off" about the way she speaks and acts that results in miscommunications that would never occur between anyone who knew or understood what was going on. Based on the way my family acts around her, too, I know that they know it. She's on some pretty heavy medications... for what I don't know... but I'll leave well enough alone. I'm not going to be the one who can make her feel better or who can change the dynamic of this family, so I won't even stress myself out trying.

Anyway, the point is that I didn't sleep last night for some weird pacing and stuff she was doing in the hotel room at about 3AM. So I'm pretty tired today. The weather was so good, however, that I really could have gone for a hike rather than sit in the car all day. (Dad drives like a nutcase and nobody wears seatbelts!! Except me.) There was this beautiful countryside all around and I felt like stretching my hands as far out the car window as I could just to take it all in. When I asked on Friday if I should bring hiking boots, they told me it would be too cold in Hakkone to hike. Too cold? Cold, clear weather is *THE BEST* weather. Y'all city folk just don't unda-STAND. Snap.

As a gaijin, I was also apparently a bit of a rarity at the hotel. I ran into the same two guys coming to and from the bath several times and they loved to poke each other, giggle and make jokes at my expense. The first time they saw me, they were coming off the elevator and shook my hand. A few sightings later, we rode the elevator together and they asked me a few questions and made some quack about "O-furo, isshouni..." (Together to the bath...) to which my only response was to shake my head sadly, hand covering my face. The next few times they saw me they just giggled and poked each other some more. I guess I just shock the pants off of the Japanese while walking around in a Yukata. This morning on the way to breakfast, some fellow felt the need to tell everyone in the elevator how surprised he was that I was so tall. I don't think he knew I understood him.

OK, but the onsen were freaking fabulous. I don't know if they were naturally occuring and frankly, I don't care. Japanese baths are great. There were about, oh, four or five different varieties of onsen in which to soak. An indoor bath, a normal outdoor bath, a bubbly outdoor bath, an outdoor bath with some funky faucets and a little mini, bed-shaped personal bath that bubbled all over your backside. Not to mention massage chairs and a sauna. Ahhhh. YUM.

Unfortunately, having returned, I'm already stressed out again. Tomorrow is the last day of classes and I have due an 8-10 page research paper and a 6-chapter kanji test. Uff. I'm excitedly anticipating break but less so with the prospect of planning, by myself, five weeks of travel in and outside of Tokyo during Spring Break. Not to mention that I can't really afford any of it. But I'll do it anyway because eh, who needs money... it's just silly paper (or just plain make-believe if you factor in credit) and I can always make more. College is the time to be poor, right?

I'm going to go take another bath. THAT'S the answer to everything. I'll have pictures (including Fuji-saaaaaan) later.